The tradition of “Varvara” is an integral part of the folk religious heritage of Drama. Every year, as the 4th of December dawns, memories return to those cold mornings when we opened our eyes to steaming bowls of Varvara, filling the house with the warm aroma of sesame and cinnamon.
Saint Barbara was considered by the people of Drama to be the protector of children against serious childhood illnesses, especially smallpox, which caused many deaths among the young. For this reason, on her feast day, they prepared and distributed a sweet dish to “sweeten” the Saint, naming it “Varvara.”
The most important folkloric and nationwide offering to Saint Barbara is the festive kolyvo-broth, also known as “Varvara.” It is offered to the beloved Saint so that she may keep everyone’s faces beautiful and free from the disfigurement caused by smallpox. According to tradition, everyone must eat from the Varvara and share it with others—a symbol of a community united in defensive solidarity.
The custom of Varvara, known to all, was widespread in Eastern Macedonia and Thrace. It is closely connected both to the belief in the Saint’s healing powers against smallpox and to the cultivation of wheat, an essential ingredient in producing the precious daily bread.
How “Varvara” Is Made
Every year on the 4th of December, memories return to those cold mornings when steaming plates of Varvara awaited us, and the house was filled with the scent of sesame and cinnamon.
In Drama, nine ingredients are traditionally used: wheat, almonds, walnuts, pomegranate seeds, raisins, cinnamon, sesame, tahini, and finely chopped fruit, mainly firm apples. Varvara was prepared on the eve of Saint Barbara’s feast and distributed early the next morning.
In those days, children could be seen leaving their homes carrying tin containers with handles, filled with the sweet kolyvo-broth, which they shared with the neighboring houses—receiving in return their own portion of Varvara to bring home. It was a festive day for children, eagerly awaited each year, as the elders still recall with emotion.
The atmosphere throughout the town was celebratory. Every home had to shine with cleanliness, ready to welcome any visitor. In the heart of winter, the feast of Saint Barbara transformed into a grand celebration.
Furthermore, the people connected her feast day with the arrival of winter and the intensifying cold:
“Saint Barbara brings the chill, Saint Savvas lays the shroud, and Saint Nicholas seals it,”
or
“Saint Barbara spoke, and Savvas replied; Saint Nicholas has arrived, laden with snow.”
Thus, from ancient times, the feast of Saint Barbara marked the point at which agricultural work ceased, along with the household tasks related to thorough cleaning. During the long December nights, the feasts of the Church’s saints offered people the chance to exchange visits and enjoy the warmth of well-kept homes.
The people of Drama respected, valued, and loved Saint Barbara, considering her a helper in times of illness. For this reason, she is honored as the patron saint of the city—and as a small sign of reverence, the market of Drama remains closed every year on December 4th.
words from tradition
